- Date Completed: 2018 July 23 Monday
- Distance (According to GPS): 1.37km + 5.59km = 6.96km
- Time: 32min + 2hr 45min = 3hr 17min
- Elevation Gain: + 264m – 269m
- West Coast Trail KM’s: KM 46 to KM 40
- Map of the Route & GPS data: Yes!! Click here for Route
- Best Description for this Day: Scene from the Walking Dead
I’m a bit old school with tracking our adventures in my Moleskin Notebook.
Day 5: Carmanah Creek to KM 40 Dare Beach – 2018-July-23
7:00ish Happily/ Sorta Slept in + FOG
We woke up to a morning full of FOG. It was bound to occur one of these days. So we packed up our tents. The night prior we had reserved a breakfast at Chez Monique’s. It’s not a common item but it can be arranged well advanced. So tents and gear packed up and down the beach and through the midst we wandered.
8:20 “Real” Breakfast
We were happy to have a pot of real coffee (not the instant stuff) and some “real food” to kick start the day. We talked with the family and got some more insight into their plans with Chez Monique’s. The operation may come to a halt if a road approval to their land is not obtained. As safety to deliver materials is a huge concern for the family. Check out their Facebook page and Go Fund Me to provide support. Fingers crossed they are around in 2019 and into the future as Chez Monique’s is a true highlight to stop at along the trail. Full of breakfast, we said our goodbyes and continued on.
9:39 Along we go, brief dead-end, then back on track
Leaving the bay, we meet the ladder right away to trek up and over the ridge. We continue along the beach until we inadvertently reached Carmanah Point at 10:07 which turned out to be a dead end/ impassible headland. First misfire for the team. So we back tracked and found the ladder up to the forest bypass route to cut up the hill by the light house.
10:23 Stairway to the Light House
Up a bunch of stairs, and through a gate. We reached Carmanah Point Light House and first sight, we saw the bones of a hump back whale. Super cool to see. The set up at the lighthouse was pretty neat to view. Not wanting to overstay, we continued on to the forest route and saw the “Canadian Coast Guard Lightstation Carmanah Point” sign at 10:33. Shortly after we saw the Bamfield/ Port Renfrew directional signs.
Down through the forest we go. Hit Ladder # 81 at 10:35. Continued through the misty forest route which had this jungle vibe feel. As we trekked through, it was very entertaining to see some of the old ladders that used to be in existence and the new ladders built on top/ adjacent. Some more bridges and ladders, then we reached the beach access on the north end of Carmanah Point at 10:50.
10:50 Back to Beach Boogie – Fog Version
Walking along the beach in the fog with these massive waves crashing against the shoreline, within a foggy mist. It felt like we were in a scene from the walking dead. The rock formations along the shorelines and the random tree’s sprouted out within the low tide area was an eerie, yet beauty to see. The rocky beach ground eventually turned into sand, sinking sand that was oh so much fun to walk along.
As we approached the next creek, we crossed by a massive group of seagulls along the sand. My instinct is to run directly at them. Truthfully, the size of the seagulls was quite a site especially coming from Vancouver, where the seagulls at home are 2-3 times bigger than the ones we walked by.
At 11:23 we approached and hopped over Coal Creek at KM=3.47 for the day. A small, curvy shaped creek connecting to the ocean in behind a protecting rock face. These large “rock walls” acted as barriers protecting the beach from the large waves coming to shore. It was beautiful to stare at the waves exploding on the rocks. An incredible back drop and sight to see in the foggy midst. The wall stretched along the rocky beach as we continued north.
At KM = 3.59 for the day/ around 11:33 we opted for a break at Cribbs Creek. Cribbs Creek is a beautiful campsite frequented by hikers. It is protected behind these rock walls that the waves crash into. There are a few spots here and the usual outhouses, food storage lockers and a fresh water creek. For people taking the forest route, the Bridge at Cribbs Creek is gone. Broken down either by fallen trees or an assumed storm. Fortunately, you can walk along the rocks on the beach to get across the creek.
I would love to come back and see this campsite in the sun, as I feel the site of the ocean skyline in behind the rock wall would be a beauty of a site. However, the fog made the atmosphere feel unique and mysterious.
Break over. We walk along the beach from Cribbs Creek, up to the face of the wall. At 12:22 get to a plank to get up and over the rock wall to the beach route to trek to Dare Beach. The plank we crossed felt a wee bit sketchy, so we passed the back packs up and maneuvered on wards. I thought the rocks before were cool, but the rock formations over the wall were even more INCREDIBLE! It felt like we were walking on an enlarged lizards skin with all the cracks between the rocks representing the scales on the back of the lizard.
The walk was beautiful in the foggy midst, I felt like we were transported to a different planet as the waves came crashing and we stepped along the jagged rock/ sandy beach. Sand. Rocks. A bit of climbing up and over the rocks. Crossed up and over a surge channel.
And a few more changing landscapes, we reached Dare Beach/ WCT KM 40 at 12:52/ KM = 5.37 for the day.
Dare Beach is beautiful, with amazing surroundings even in the fog.
Beautiful Beach with Amazing Surroundings, albeit we are in the fog.
12:52 KM 40 Dare Beach Campsite
We clearly got to this campsite super early. As our set up turned into an epic “Camp House”. We declared home part way down the beach in a debris filled commune. Wanting to have the urge to walk around bare foot and not have our feet get stabbed, we opted to build a house environment that contained dedicated paths to the different “rooms”. Even opted as far as framing out the paths with logs and doing some compaction of the ground. 2 hours later we were happy with our creation.
Camp House in full swing. We put on the fire. Made some food. Played some games. Attempted to do Yoga in the “Yoga Room”. Enjoyed the greyish environment. Played some more of our custom game. More marshmellows on the fire. (You can restock at Chez Moniques)
The best description I give Dare Beach is foggy. Very Apocalyptic feel. Secluded house on a sandy soft beach, that when wet is a pain to get off your bare feet when getting into you tent at night.
Day 5 – TIPS/ KEYNOTES
- After Chez Moniques, make sure you keep out a look for the bypass up beyond Carmanah Lighthouse. First double back of the trip.
- In the fog, as soon as you get to camp. Get that tent up to let it air out and dry. The fog has a fun effect of causing a ton of moisture and in the morning the dew is everywhere.
- Do not let the fog get you down. Day 5 was full on fog with no sun light poking through. It’s starts to get to your head after a while.
- To keep your backpack dry, especially in the fog and from the morning dew, I highly recommend investing in a waterproof backpack cover.